It was a cold, rainy June back in the 70s when I and other members of the Rustics log home company assembled the logs for what would become the Hungry Bear Restaurant in Condon. Many fond memories since—I brought my now wife Pam there in 1982 to show the city girl Montana, only to have my Rustics coworker Tuffy Anderson say “I like her better than the last one you dragged in here.”
The Hungry Bear has endured the many decades with different owners, a significant expansion, and evolving gastronomic emphases. Current owners Rick Medeiros and Deb Urick assumed ownership in June 2020, with Cole Urick as the lead chef. From what I can tell, the owners spend every waking moment tending their business, and their effort and energy shows.
My evaluation is based on many encounters. The Swan Valley Community Foundation had a large event at the HB for around 80 people. Despite the numbers and the challenge of an outdoor event, the prime rib was perfectly done, the halibut flavorful, and the fettucine tastefully creamy with tender chicken.
We had our annual Lindbergh Lake Homeowners Association picnic at the Bear with around 40, and the crew kept up with our insatiable pizza demand. The crust is crispy and light, and the formula of cheeses, sauce, and toppings finds that magic which home pizza chefs find so elusive.
I took my three thirty-something kids and (same) wife recently to the HB for further study. Starting off with an excellent draft Hefeweizen—Miner’s Gold—might affect the judgement of lesser souls, but I remained objective. The spinach and artichoke dip appetizer was delirious, especially combined with the homemade pita chips. Daughter Sally had the Strawberry Fields Salad, which was a riot of fresh greens, berries, cheeses, and nuts with a light but determined vinaigrette. Son Luke and I shared the “Cowboy” sandwich—a prime rib French Dip with provolone on sourdough, and the special of the day—Country Fried Steak. Both were outstanding, the prime rib again perfect on toasted bread, and the steak crispy with gravy so good it came with a coronary stent. If that didn’t get you, the slightly sweet and crunchy onion rings will. Daughter Cathy had the fettucine, and Pam a “Lindbergh Pizza”. Both pronounced their choices a success.
A long-time mainstay of the HB has been the cheese soup. Daughter Sally has loved it so much we have shipped it to her in various locations across the country. Naturally she had a bowl with her salad and felt that the formula has evolved—a bit more creamy, slightly sharper cheese—which she endorsed.
I had a little of everything as I am something of a family goat. My kids have learned to eat like prison inmates, guarding their dinner with a forearm when they see me gazing speculatively at their food. I found the dinner to be consistently excellent. We had five entrees, an appetizer, some soft drinks, and two beers with a ticket of $126. Despite its rural location, the HB seems about 15-20% less than Missoula or Billings.
Thursday night karaoke and some terrific live music at the Bear have been big draws for the Condon locals as well as some destination travelers as the word has gotten out.
The nostalgic pull of a place I helped build, of decades of memories, is cool, but only goes so far. The efforts of a hard-working family putting out a great product will keep me coming back.
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